San Juan
Founded in 1510, San Juan, ( pop: about 1 million ) the capital spreads several kilometres along the north coast and also inland. The nucleus is Old San Juan, the old walled city on a tongue of land between the Atlantic and San Juan bay. It has a great deal of charm and character, a living museum; the Institute of Culture restores and renovates old buildings, museums and places of particular beauty. The narrow streets of Old San Juan, some paved with small grey-blue cobblestones which were brought over as ships� ballast, are lined with colonial churches, houses and mansions, in a very good state of repair and all painted different pastel colours.
Some of the restored and interesting buildings to visit include La Fortaleza, the Governor�s Palace, built between 1533 and 1540 as a fortress against Carib attacks but greatly expanded in the 19th century. It is believed to be the oldest executive residence in continuous use in the Western Hemisphere. Access to the official areas is not permitted. 0900-1600 Mon-Fri, T7217000 ext 2211; guided tours in English on the hour, in Spanish every 30 mins. The Cathedral was built in the 16th century but extensively restored in the 19th and 20th. The body of Juan Ponce de Le�n rests in a marble tomb. Daily 0630-1700. The tiny Cristo Chapel with its silver altar, was built after a young man competing in 1753 in a horse-race during the San Juan festival celebrations plunged with his horse over the precipice at that very spot. Tue 1000-1600. Next to it is the aptly-named Parque de las Palomas, where the birds perch on your hand to be fed. This practice is best avoided, however, as we have heard of people contracting a lung virus and ending up in hospital. San Felipe del Morro was built in 1591 to defend the entrance to the harbour, and the 11ha Fort San Crist�bal was completed in 1772 to support El Morro and to defend the landward side of the city, with its five independent units connected by tunnels and dry moats, rising 46m above the ocean. Good views of the city. Both open daily 0900-1700. Free. T7296777. Tours of El Morro in English at 1100 and 1500, tours of San Crist�bal in English at 1000 and 1400. The Plaza del Quinto Centenario, inaugurated on 12 October 1992 to commemorate the 500th anniversary of Columbus� landing, is a modernistic square on several levels with steps leading to a central fountain with hundreds of jets (good view of El Morro, the cemetery and sunsets). The restored Cuartel de Ballaj�, once the barracks for Spanish troops and their families, was also inaugurated 12 October 1992 with the Museum of the Americas on the second floor tracing the cultural development of the history of the New World. Mon-Fri 1000-1600, Sat-Sun 1100-1700. Free. T7245052. Guided tours available weekdays 1030, 1130, 1230 and 1400. The Dominican Convent built in the early 16th century, later used as a headquarters by the US Army, is now the office of the Institute of Culture, with a good art gallery. Cultural events are sometimes held in the patio, art exhibitions in the galleries. Open Wed-Sun, 0900-1200, 1300-1630. T7240700. The 16th-century San Jos� church, originally a Dominican chapel, is the second oldest church in the Western Hemisphere and once the family church of Ponce de Le�n�s descendants. Ponce was buried here until moved to the Cathedral in the 20th century. Mon-Sat 0830-1600, Sun mass at 1200. The early 18th century Casa de los Contrafuertes believed to be the oldest private residence in the old city, now has periodic art exhibitions on the second floor and a small pharmacy museum with 19th-century exhibits on the ground floor. Wed-Sun, 0900-1630. T7245949. The Casa Blanca, 1 Calle San Sebasti�n, was built in 1523 by the family of Ponce de Le�n, who lived in it for 250 years until it became the residence of the Spanish and then the US military commander-in-chief. It is now a historical museum which is well worth a visit. Tue-Sun 0900-1200, 1300-1630. US$2 adults, US$1 children. T7244102. Guided tours Tue-Fri by appointment. The Alcald�a, or City Hall, was built 1604-1789. Mon-Fri 0800-1600 except holidays. T7247171, ext 2391. The Intendencia, formerly the Spanish colonial exchequer, a fine example of 19th-century Puerto Rican architecture, now houses Puerto Rico�s State Department. Mon-Fri 0800-1200, 1300-1630. T7222121. The naval arsenal was the last place in Puerto Rico to be evacuated by the Spanish in 1898, exhibitions are held in three galleries. n Wed-Sun, 0900-1200, 1300-1630. T7245949. The Casa del Callej�n is a restored 18th-century house containing two colonial museums, the architectural and the Puerto Rican Family. T7255250. Both closed for restoration.
Museums: Apart from those in historic buildings listed above, there are the Pablo Casals Museum in an 18th-century house beside San Jos� church, with Casals� cello and other memorabilia. T7239185. US$1 adults, US$0.50 children. Tue-Sat 0930-1730. The San Juan Museum of Art and History, Norzagaray y MacArthur, built in 1855 as a marketplace, now a cultural centre with exhibition galleries. Tue-Sun, 1000-1600. T7241875. The Casa del Libro is an 18th-century house on Calle Cristo, has a collection of rare books, including some over 400 years old. Tue-Sat, except holidays, 1100-1630. T7230354. And the Museum of the Sea on Pier One, with a collection of maritime instruments and models. n Open when the pier is open for cruise ships. T7252532. The Indian Museum at Calle San Jos� 109 on the corner of Luna concentrates on Puerto Rican indigenous cultures, with exhibits, ceramics and archaeological digs. Tue-Sat 0900-1600. No admission charge. T7245477. Another museum in the old city is a military museum at Fort San Jer�nimo. Wed-Sun, 0930-1200, 1300-1630. T7245949.
Metropolitan San Juan: The metropolitan area of San Juan includes the more modern areas of Santurce, Hato Rey, and R�o Piedras. R�o Piedras was founded in 1714 but became incorporated into San Juan in 1951. On the edge of R�o Piedras, the gardens and library of the former governor, Luis Mu�oz Mar�n, are open to the public, with a museum showing his letters, photos and speeches. T7557979. Tue-Sat 0900-1300.
The University of Puerto Rico at R�o Piedras is in a lovely area. The University Museum has archaeological and historical exhibitions, and also monthly art exhibitions. T7640000, ext 2452. Open Mon-Fri, 0900-2100, weekends 0900-1500. The Botanical Garden at the Agricultural Experiment Station has over 200 species of tropical and subtropical plants, a bamboo promenade (one variety can grow four feet in a day), an orchid garden (over 30,000 orchids), and an aquatic garden. T7634408, http://web.archive.org/web/2004060 7114719/http://www.upr.clu.edu/ Daily 0800-1630.
Hato Rey is the financial district of San Juan nicknamed �the Golden Mile�. The Lu�s Mu�oz Mar�n Park on Avenida Jes�s T Pi�ero covers 35ha, which can be toured by a 1 km cable car. Open Tue-Sun 0900-1700. The Sacred Heart University with the Museum of Contemporary Puerto Rican Art is in Santurce. T2680049, Tue-Sat 0900-1600, Sun 1100-1700. The modern Fine Arts Center, opened in 1981, with theatres and halls at the corner of De Diego and Ponce de Le�n. T7244751. The residential area Miramar has several moderately priced hotels as well as some expensive ones. Miramar is separated from the Atlantic coast by the Condado lagoon and the Condado beach area, where the luxury hotels, casinos, nightclubs and restaurants are concentrated. From Condado the beach front is built up eastwards through Ocean Park, Santa Teresita, Punta Las Mar�as and Isla Verde. Building is expanding along the narrow strip beyond Isla Verde, between the sea and the airport. Along this road, Avenida Boca de Cangrejos, there are lots of food trucks selling barbecued specialities.
webbot bot="Navigation" i-checksum="49887" endspan
North of Rinc�n the road leads to Aguadilla, another good spot for sunset watching. Crash Boat Beach is a popular surfing beach just to the north and lots of watersports are on offer. Aquatica Underwater Adventures, Route 110, Km 10, T8906071. Offers diving and fishing and trips to Desecheo. There is a golf course at the old Ramey base, originally designed for Eisenhower, Punta Borinqu�n Golf, Route 107, T8902987, with tuition, pro-shop and practice range.
On the south side of the west coast is Boquer�n, in Cabo Rojo district, which has an excellent beach for swimming. It is very wide and long, admission US$1, camping, changing rooms, beach and first 30 m of sea packed with bodies on holiday weekends. About 1� km away across the bay is a beautiful, deserted beach, but there is no road to it. The small village is pleasant, with typical bars, restaurants and street vendors serving the local speciality, oysters. This is one of the cheapest spots on the island because it is a centre for the Comp�n�a de Fomento Recreativo to provide holiday accommodation for Puerto Rican families. South of the town is Boquer�n Lagoon , a wildfowl sanctuary; also the Cabo Rojo Wildlife Refuge , with a visitors� centre and birdwatching trails. The Cabo Rojo lighthouse (Faro), at the island�s southwest tip is the most southerly point on the island with a breathtaking view; the exposed coral rocks have marine fossils and, closer inshore, shallow salt pools where crystals collect. The vegetation is dry scrub and you can find the slow growing hard wood, lignum vitae. Popular beaches in this area are El Combate (miles of white sand, undeveloped, but now a favourite with university students), south of Boquer�n, and Joyuda (small island just offshore offers good snorkelling and swimming, but beach itself not spectacular) and Buy� (camping US$8 a night) to the north. At Joyuda you can go fishing, snorkelling or take a trip to Mona Island with Tour Marine Adventures, on the beach near Perichi�s, T8519259, tourmarine@yahoo.com On the south side of the west coast is Boquer�n, in Cabo Rojo district, which has an excellent beach for swimming. It is very wide and long, admission US$1, camping, changing rooms, beach and first 30 m of sea packed with bodies on holiday weekends. About 1� km away across the bay is a beautiful, deserted beach, but there is no road to it. The small village is pleasant, with typical bars, restaurants and street vendors serving the local speciality, oysters. This is one of the cheapest spots on the island because it is a centre for the Comp�n�a de Fomento Recreativo to provide holiday accommodation for Puerto Rican families. South of the town is Boquer�n Lagoon , a wildfowl sanctuary; also the Cabo Rojo Wildlife Refuge , with a visitors� centre and birdwatching trails. The Cabo Rojo lighthouse (Faro), at the island�s southwest tip is the most southerly point on the island with a breathtaking view; the exposed coral rocks have marine fossils and, closer inshore, shallow salt pools where crystals collect. The vegetation is dry scrub and you can find the slow growing hard wood, lignum vitae. Popular beaches in this area are El Combate (miles of white sand, undeveloped, but now a favourite with university students), south of Boquer�n, and Joyuda (small island just offshore offers good snorkelling and swimming, but beach itself not spectacular) and Buy� (camping US$8 a night) to the north. At Joyuda you can go fishing, snorkelling or take a trip to Mona Island with Tour Marine Adventures, on the beach near Perichi�s, T8519259, tourmarine@yahoo.com
Eastern Sectionwebbot bot="Navigation" i-checksum="31932" endspan
An interesting round trip through the east half of the island can be done by a series of p�blicos from San Juan � R�o Grande � Luquillo � Fajardo � Humacao � Yabucoa � Guayama � Cayey � Aibonito � Barranquitas � Bayam�n � San Juan. If travelling by car, a variant between San Juan and El Yunque takes you on Route 187 from Isla Verde, outside San Juan, to Lo�za along a stretch of the north coast, which includes the Pi�ones State Forest , sand blown and palm-lined road. Some parts are unspoilt, some parts pass through apartment blocks on the outskirts of towns, and the road is a popular rush-hour route. The bay at Vac�a Talega is beautifully calm. The section which joins the coast to Route 3 at R�o Grande is also tree-lined and attractive. There is a big Westin resort and several golf clubs in the R�o Grande area. In the hills above Rio Grande is La Casa De Vida Natural Health Spa, a holistic health retreat and vegetarian bed and breakfast, lots of therapies available, steam baths, jacuzzi, T8874359, http://web.archive.org/web/2004102 2053327/http://www.lacasaspa.com/ Luquillo: Luquillo was founded in 1797 when a group of colonizers led by Crist�bal de Guzm�n moved from San Juan to escape frequent British naval attacks. The town was named after the Indian cacique Loquillo, who died a few years after the last Indian rebellion of Boriqu�n that took place following the seizure of the Spanish settlement of Santiago by the shores of the R�o Daguao in 1513. In honour of the anniversary of its founding, in 1997 a new landscaped plaza municipal was inaugurated with a huge statue of the cacique Loquillo. There is a beach in town and a balneario west of town; just by the latter is a row of restaurants on the slip road off the dual carriageway (Route 3). P�blicos from San Juan to Luquillo are marked Fajardo, US$3, no return p�blicos after 1500.
Fajardo: Fajardo is a boating centre with several marinas and a public beach at Seven Seas; beyond Seven Seas is Las Croabas beach. Offshore is an uninhabited, but much visited, coral island, Icacos. Las Cabezas de San Juan is a nature reserve on the headlands (three promontories) north of Fajardo on Route 987, Km 6. A 19th-century lighthouse contains a nature centre and its observation deck has a great view of El Yunque and surrounding islands. There are trails and boardwalks, guides and explanatory signs of the different ecological habitats. T7225882, or T8602560 at weekends, http://web.archive.org/web/2004102 2053327/http://www.fideicomiso.org/ US$5 adults, US$2 children. Fri-Sun, tours, reservations required. Off Humacao Beach/Balneario is a tiny cay called Cayo Santiago , also known as Monkey Island . It is inhabited by over 500 tiny monkeys, which are protected. The island is closed to the public although there are sightseeing tours which get you close enough to see the monkeys through binoculars.
El Yunquewebbot bot="Navigation" i-checksum="28826" endspan El Yunque, or Caribbean National Forest , is a tropical forest and bird sanctuary, the largest rain forest in the US forest service system. The forest is divided into north side and south side, with no road connection. After a series of landslides everyone has given up and Route 191 is permanently closed in the middle; you have to drive all the way around to get to the south side or hike (a bit tricky to get past the landslides). Concrete trails to the various peaks: El Yunque (The Anvil) itself, Mount Britton, Los Picachos, as well as to waterfalls and look out towers giving excellent views. There are 13 trails in all, covering 37 km. The Ba�o Grande is the shortest, taking about 45 minutes and passing a large man-made pool built by the Civilian Conservation Corp in the 1930s. The Big Tree Trail is about the most strenuous, taking 1� hours and ending at La Mina waterfall. In view of the heavy rainfall, another name for the forest is Rain Forest. Visitors need not worry unduly, as storms are usually brief and plenty of shelter is provided. If you have worked up an appetite walking, on your way out, heading south on Route 191, there is a collection of food stalls on your left selling fish, plantain, yuca and fruit licuados, delicious. The Palma de Sierra Centre is open daily 0815-1600, 1 Nov-1 Mar, 0915-1700 2 Mar-31 Oct, T8872875, groups should contact El Yunque Ranger District, PO Box B, Palmer PR00721. In 1996 El Portal, Centro Forestal Tropical, opened, with exhibitions, educational and conservation material, patios where you can relax and admire the view, 100-seat theatre showing a 30-min documentary film on El Yunque, in Spanish followed by an English version. US$3 adults, US$1.50 children and older people. Daily 0900-1700. Getting there: El Yunque is reached via Route 3 from San Juan towards Fajardo, and then right on Route 191. El Portal is at the entrance on Route 191. The Park Service publishes a good map. Camping is allowed with a free permit from El Portal, but there are no facilities and it is not recommended for security reasons. T8881810 for information or go to El Portal before 1600. http://web.archive.org/web/2004102 2053151/http://www.r8web.com/caribbean
The south side of the forest is approached from Naguabo up Route 191. No facilities have yet been developed but there are plans. The soil and weather here is different from the north. The north is red clay (and soggy) and the south is almost sandy (fine granite), while it is less humid and cooler. It is also quieter, with no tour buses or parking lots.
Guánica webbot bot="Navigation" i-checksum="26245" endspan Going west from Ponce is Gu�nica, the place where American troops first landed in the Spanish-American war. It has an old fort from which there are excellent views. Although Gu�nica has a history stretching back to Ponce de Le�n�s landing in 1508, the first of many colonist landings in the bay, the town was not actually founded here until 1914. For details on the Gu�nica Forest see Flora & Fauna . A cabin site is being developed, rather primitive, with a visitor centre. The on-site forest supervisor is Miguel Canals. Outside Gu�nica is a balneario with a large hotel alongside, Copamarina. Scuba diving and other watersports are possible here with Dive Copamarina, T8210505, http://web.archive.org/web/2004102 2053306/http://www.copamarina.com/ ; the wall is close to the shore and there are drop-offs and canyons. You can get to Gilligans Island by 15-minute water taxi. Go past Balneario Ca�a Gorda on route 333, turn right towards Punta Jacinto and the pier. There is a fishing pier, barbecue area, information office and beautiful beach. 0900-1700, closed Mon (or Tue if Mon is a holiday).
La Parguera
Further west is La Parguera, originally a fishing village and now a popular resort with paradores, guest houses, fish restaurants, fast food outlets. Noisy on holiday weekends. Fishing, kayaking, mountain biking and other activities are offered. Parguera Divers are at Posada Porlamar, T8994171, for wall diving. Parguera Fishing Charters, T8994698, hometown.aol.com/mareja , will take you reef fishing or out to catch marlin, dorado, wahoo and tuna. Nearby is Phosphorescent Bay , an area of phosphorescent water, occurring through a permanent population of minescent dinoflagellates, a tiny form of marine life, which produce sparks of chemical light when disturbed. One hour boat trips round the bay depart between 1930 and 2230, every 30 minutes, US$12 per person, the experience is said to be rather disappointing, however, and it is best to go on a very dark night or even when it is raining. Mosquito Bay on Vieques is much better.
Mayaguez is a crowded city with little of interest to the tourist. There are botanical gardens, at the Tropical Agricultural Research Station, near the University of Puerto Rico. Mon-Fri, 0730-1630. Free. The city also has a zoo. Tue-Sun, 0900-1630. Adults US$1, children US$0.50. The tourist office is in the Municipalidad on Plaza Col�n but has no tourist information available.
North Coast Roads
Route 2, the main road in the north, runs from Aguadilla through Quebradillas to Arecibo, then through urban areas to some extent from Arecibo and completely from Manat� to San Juan. South of Quebradillas in the Monta�as Aymam�n is the Bosque Estatal de Guajataca , a dry forest with a large number of bird species, on Route 446. There are over 40 walking trails with 40 km of maintained footpaths through the Karst region, three picnic areas and two camping areas with tent sites. The on-site supervisor is Edwin Avila. Get your permit in San Juan or the regional office in Aguadilla, T8904050 (see Flora & Fauna ). South of Arecibo in the Karst country is the Bosque R�o Abajo , a 2,023-ha reserve off Route 10. It contains 70 trails and dirt roads, ideal for viewing plant and birdlife, 15 commercial plantations (teak, mahogany, maga trees), two new campsites, two natural springwater swimming pools and some amazing bamboo near the end of the road. The on-site forest supervisor is Jos� Casanovas. There is also a private campsite at Dos Bocas: T J Ranch, a coffee farm run by Tony and Juanita, pool, toilets, no electricity, US$5 per person, breakfast on request, go over the dam on Route 146, first left straight up to the top, past phone booth, then at intersection turn left (small sign for T J Ranch), T8801217, HC02 Box 14926, Arecibo, PR 00612.
Panoramic Route
Heading east from Mayag�ez is the Panoramic Route which runs the whole length of Puerto Rico, through some of the island�s most stunning scenery. It passes through the Cordillera Central, with large areas of forest, and there are several excursions to various countryside resorts. Despite the fact that you are never far from buildings, schools or farms, the landscape is always fascinating. In the evening the panoramas are lovely and you can hear the song of the coqu�. No trip to the interior should miss at least some part of the Panoramic Route, but if you want to travel all of it, allow three days. The roads which are used are narrow, with many bends, so take care at corners. The Maricao State Forest (Monte del Estado) is the most westerly forest on the Route; its visitors� areas are open from 0600 to 1800, T7243724. It is a beautiful forest with magnificent views, an observation tower and a fish hatchery.
Susua and Guilarte: South of the Panoramic Route between Sabana Grande and Yauco on Route 371 is the Bosque Estatal de Susua , a dry forest with recreational areas, a river, 40 tent sites and showers. Acquire permits in San Juan or the Ponce regional office, T8444051 (see Flora & Fauna ). As it approaches Adjuntas and the transinsular Route 10, the Panoramic Route goes through the Bosque de Guilarte , again with fine views, flowering trees, bougainvillaea, banks of impatiens (busy lizzie, miramelinda in Spanish), and bird song (if you stop to listen). Off Routes 131 and 518, south of Adjuntas, there is a trail through eucalyptus trees up to the peak with a nice view. It is cool, you are in the clouds. There are five basic cabins, F , with two sets of bunk beds, musty smell, bring permit, bedding, cooking things etc, shared bathroom, no electricity, barbecues, picnic tables. On site forest supervisor Rub�n Padr�n, get permit from San Juan or Ponce regional office, T8444051 .
Toro Negro: After Adjuntas, the road enters the Toro Negro Forest Reserve , which includes the highest point on the island, Cerro de Punta (1,338 m). This is a smaller area than El Yunque, with fewer rivers. There are many very tall eucalyptus trees along the road. Lago El Guineo and Lago de Matrullas are Puerto Rico�s highest lakes. The reserve has five trails, one to an observation tower with views of the mountains and lakes. A camping area (14 tent sites), has showers and toilets. There is a natural springwater swimming pool further down the road open May-September. Permit needed from Servicio Forestal in San Juan or regional office in Ponce, T8444051. The on-site forest supervisor is Ren� Rom�n. The Recreation Areas in Toro Negro are open from 0800-1700.
Jayuya: Just north of the Panoramic Route is Jayuya, overlooked by Cerro de Punta and Tres Picachos in a beautiful mountain setting. It is known as the indigenous capital of Puerto Rico and is named after the Indian cacique Hayuya, the last to submit to the Spaniards. Two monuments commemorate the Taino heritage: a statue of Hayuya sculpted by Tom�s Batista in 1969, and the Tumba del Indio Puertorrique�o, containing a Taino skeleton buried in the traditional foetal position. In November Jayuya celebrates an indigenous festival in honour of Hayuya.
Ca�on San Crist�bal: After this high, lush forest with its marvellous vistas, the Panoramic Route continues to Aibonito, around which the views and scenery are more open, mainly as a result of deforestation( C-E Swiss Inn Guest House , Route 14 Km 49.3, T7358500, run by Gregory Mu��z, 8 rooms with shower, fans, balcony, TV, microwave, fridge, price negotiable for longer stays, very friendly and helpful, up in the mountains). Thence to Cayey and, beyond, another forest, Carite (also known as Guavate, see Flora & Fauna ). Finally the road descends into the rich, green valley which leads to Yabucoa. Between Aibonito and Barranquitas is the Ca��n San Crist�bal, where you can climb down a mountain trail between steep walls to the bottom, where the temperature is considerably warmer, four-hour trip. Call F�lix Rivera, T7355188, for a guide, you will need one to find the way. He usually meets people at La Piedra restaurant, on Route 7718, one of Puerto Rico�s gastronomic delights. You can see the canyon from the top from a dirt road off Route 162, very impressive.
From various points on the Panoramic Route you can head north or south; for example Route 10 goes south from Adjuntas to Ponce, or north to Utuado and then on to R�o Abajo State Forest where there are a swimming pool and various picnic spots. 0600-1800. It is approached through splendid views of the karst hills and the Dos Bocas Lake . Free launch trips are offered on this lake at 0700, 1000, 1400 and 1700; they last two hours and are provided by the Public Works Department. Route 10 reaches the north coast at Arecibo.
Caguana Indian Ceremonial Park: The Caguana Indian Ceremonial Park, west of Utuado, dates from about 1100 AD, and contains 10 Taino ball courts, each named after a Taino cacique (chieftain). The courts vary in size, the longest being about 85 m by 20 (Guarionex), the largest 65 by 50 (Agueybana). These two have monoliths in the stones that line the level �pitch�, and on those of Agueybana there are petroglyphs, some quite faint. None of the monoliths is taller than a man. A path leads down to the R�o Tanam�. The setting, amid limestone hills, is very impressive. It is believed to be a site of some religious significance and has been restored with a small museum in the 13-acre landscaped botanical park containing royal palm, guava, cedar and ceiba. It is on Route 111 to Lares, Km 12.3. 0900-1700 (gate to the river closes at 1630). Free.
Further west of Utuado, Lares is a hilltop town (p�blicos go from one block from church) from where you can either carry on to the west coast at Aguadilla, or head north on one of the many routes to the Atlantic coast. Route 453 passes Lago de Guajataca , continuing as Route 113 to Quebradillas. Route 455 branches west off the 453, leading via a short stretch of the 119 to the 457 and 446 (good view at the junction of these two). Route 446 traverses, as a single track, the Bosque Estatal de Guajataca . Route 129 goes to Arecibo, passing the R�o Camuy Cave Park , with side trips to the Cueva de Camuy and the Arecibo Observatory (see Flora & Fauna ). Driving on the country roads in the area between the Panoramic Route and the north coast is twisty but pleasant, passing conical limestone hills (mogotes) and farms set among patches of lush forest.